This is one of those rare games that will appeal to the real experts and entertain those who think fish come in small cans from the supermarket. Now if they could only come up with a way to attach a bottle opener to my PC. Replay Value: There's always another lake, another inlet, another channel, another bait, another tournament This is the sequel to Sierra's Trophy Bass game.
It features fishing from an overhead view, simulating reeling and reel dragging for different classes of fish. The game includes a tournament mode and an online multiplayer mode for internet connected computers. Numerous tutorial video clips have been included as well. You can choose your bait and location from various maps and menus. Tournament levels let you compete with other online virtual fisherman for the best catches.
You can strategize by using fishing techniques, picking bait and fishing spots. There is even a fish radar to assist with finding good fishing spots. Additionally, there are new species of fish with bass, pan and catfish: the monster pike, sauger, rock bass, yellow perch, musky and tiger musky a hybrid.
This compilation pack combines the original Trophy Bass 2 fishing game with the expansion Northern Lakes, which introduces new fishing spots and species of fish, in a single box.
Advanced settings allow players with more knowledge of mechanics to tweak the car to squeeze out every bit of performance. Players can modify the Viper's aerodynamics for increased or decreased downforce in the front and the back. The chassis adjusts the bump and rebound of the shocks, as well as the stiffness of the springs and anti-roll bar. The alignment can be modified for toe-in, camber and height, along with braking bias and wheel lock.
Finally, players can modify the gearing and final drive. If you don't know what each of these does for the Viper, the manual explains each in moderate detail. The best measurement of performance tweaks, however, is to take the Viper on the road and feel the difference. Adjusting the height of the car from the normal 6" to 20" creates a Suzuki Samurai ride, where rolling the car at 35 mph is no difficult feat.
Spinning the tires from a standstill is easy once you change the gearing for maximum acceleration. Want to drive your father's Oldsmobile? Reduce the stiffness of the ride and watch the car roll with the curves. The physics are quite realistic, especially compared with an arcade racer. I took the car through a variety of maneuvers and found the car to perform exactly as expected.
Well, not quite as expected, but in a good way: the car has much more power than I anticipated and I found myself spinning the rear tires all too often. Once I learned to control the car it became friendlier. Handbrake slides, J-turns, donuts, steering with my throttle and slipping are all modeled with wonderful accuracy. The car handled well with a wheel - much more naturally than with a joystick. But Viper Racing really came to life with the force effects enabled.
The feedback effects are not the same as you find at an arcade, where the force feedback feels more "cool" than realistic. The effects in Viper Racing are subtle but effective. As I drove the Viper around a turn I could feel the tension release on the wheel as my rear tires lost grip and began to slide out.
Changing surfaces from road to grass or gravel is noticeable during the transition, but no effects are present after the transition. Bumps and crashes are barely simulated. I was somewhat underwhelmed with feedback effects, but as I played the game I began to appreciate the understated approach. I was able to focus on driving the car, with the feedback only conveying what I needed to help me drive, not distract me.
Arcade fun comes from the ability to launch a large, steel ball from the Viper when you honk your horn. Just hit another car as it speeds through a turn and watch as it spins out of control and out of your way. Players can also choose to "pave the world" and drive on any surface in the game. The Airplane allows you to take to the skies and It's not very fun and you can't win a race with it. These Arcade enhancements were obviously retrofitted to the game as an olive branch to the arcade crowd, but don't fit well with the game.
The Arcade mode provides an easier driving model that may still frustrate novice drivers during initial acceleration. Once the "spin out" is overcome, the car handles much like the cars in Need for Speed and other arcade racers.
Slipping and oversteer are minimized and the car remains in control under heavy braking. Intermediate mode is quite a jump from Arcade mode and begins to feel like a real car. All the bad things that happen when you exceed your limits or the car's limits appear here, but to a lesser degree than in the real world. Simulation mode takes all the holds off and the car handles responsively to every nuance of the wheel, brake and throttle and clutch if you've enabled that.
While the Arcade mode may be helpful for the first two or three races, the real pleasure of the game comes from Intermediate and Simulation mode racing. Arcade mode racing lacks challenge -- especially when racing against other Arcade skill drivers and damage modeling is disabled. I don't recommend the Intermediate Mode because you will eventually want to move to Simulation Mode. Any time spent in Intermediate mode works against you in Simulation mode, as you must re-acquaint yourself with the changed handling and performance of the car.
Most effects aren't noticeable at speeds below miles per hour. At these speeds the car drives with near-instant feedback and response. Once the car moves beyond the mph barrier it's a different race. The key to playing Viper Racing is to understand that you are going fast.
Very very fast. Viper Racing accurately models these effects to produce a driving experience with realistic details and real-world handling. I had been racing on the Dayton track and found myself unable to take one of the tighter turns at the speed I felt I needed.
The rear wheels lost traction and the car became unstable. At this speed, any steering correction was futile -- the race was lost. I adjusted the downforce on the rear wheels and took her out for another try. The increased downforce allowed me to take the turn at a higher speed, but at the cost of a reduced overall top speed the downforce creates more friction, hence more drag and a lower top speed. Further adjustments to the gearing allowed me to achieve the speeds I needed while maintaining control in the turns.
Tracks with winding turns require a different approach. Top speed is less important than control so adjustments to gearing for acceleration and chassis for control become more essential. Professional Bull Rider is an original game that, as far as I can tell, has never been tried on the PC before.
The most unique feature is that you can compete as the cowboy or the bull. As the bull, you can let the artificial intelligence give the cowboys a ride or you can twist and turn the bull yourself and try to buck off that cowboy. Knowing when to play as the cowboy or as the bull will be the key to winning the prize money. This is the downfall for the game -- the controls are clunky and not very responsive at all.
Here are some of the basic moves: when the bull rocks forward you try to make your cowboy lean forward, if the bull is spinning to the left you lean to the left, if the bull is spinning to the right, well, I think you get the idea of how it works. I found that the best strategy was to quit messing with the controller and just let my cowboy sit on the bull and ride him without leaning at all.
If the bull was a good one it would dump me off in the blink of an eye, if it was a cheesy bull I could hang on for days and never even worry about getting knocked off. The only saving grace for the gameplay was the fact that you can play as the bull.
I enjoyed spinning my bull around in a tight circle and then launching it into the air and flipping the cowboy off onto the ground, then the fun part starts. You get to chase this poor fellow around and try to knock him into the second row of the bleachers. If you get lucky and catch the cowboy, it is a funny sight to see him fly through the air and then smack into the fence.
If you are experiencing some problem, rarely does un-installing help and is an unnecessary procedure that will cause you to lose your configuration. Instead contact Sierra Chart support for help. We do not use an un-installer for several reasons. Sierra Chart is self-contained in one folder. Therefore, it is easy to remove with simple deletion, so there is no practical reason for an un-installer.
Un-installers, for safety reasons, do not remove all the related software files from your system, like data files and configuration files. Which means if you want to completely remove Sierra Chart, you would still have to manually delete the folder it is installed to anyway.
Sierra Chart can also be installed multiple times to your system, an un-installer listed through the Windows Control Panel would only remove the most recently installed copy. Which may not even be the copy you want to remove.
While we could support listing multiple un-installers in the Windows Programs and Features control panel page, there is no practical benefit to this to justify the effort. It only unnecessarily complicates things especially if the Sierra Chart installation folder has been manually moved.
Sierra Chart does not support un-installation through the windows Programs and Features control panel page. Additionally, that does not provide a clear and direct method to uninstall a program. Often trying to uninstall a program through that interface simply fails because you are asked for a disk or a location to the un-installer to proceed with the un-installation, which you may not even have or may not even make any sense for the particular task you are trying to accomplish.
We try to be as independent as possible from design flaws and problems in the Windows operating system and keep only to the basics for reliability and ease of use. How often have you tried to un-install a program and have it fail and then have the listing for the program still in the Programs and Features control panel page?
We have seen this often. A Prerelease is the version of Sierra Chart which has been most recently been released. As a general rule a version is released first as a prerelease and then becomes the main release anywhere from one day to two weeks later. It has all of the latest development and any changes. It may contain new features which have not yet been finalized, completely tested and require further review and consideration by us.
In all cases the prerelease is stable. We would never knowingly release a version of Sierra Chart which is not stable. In general it is not a problem to use a prerelease. If Sierra Chart Support recommends that you update to the prerelease, you should not hesitate doing so. You have the same percentage of likelihood to encounter a potential unexpected problem in Sierra Chart whether it is a prerelease or main release.
In general, Sierra Chart is a very reliable program. New development and changes when released do function properly. Often a prerelease fixes some issues that have been discovered in the main release and therefore is better to use than the main release. Nevertheless, having said all of the above, the main reason the prerelease exists is because we want to catch any unexpected problem with the new development before it is released widely.
Although the likelihood of this occurring is uncommon. To make a backup of your Sierra Chart installation simply requires using any available backup method and backing up the folder Sierra Chart is installed to.
This is all you need to do. Sierra Chart is a portable application and all of its files are contained within its own folder and its subfolders. For more information refer to Portable Design. To restore a backup, simply requires restoring that same installation folder to the same location.
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